3 days ago i took my mom and sister to the airport , they flew back to Brazil after a very nice holiday!
The same day the North Shore was on fire,,,,,,with Pipe and Sunset going off the whole day,,,8 to 10 ft with some 12 footers…..i surfed Sunset 3 times and broke my new 8″4!!!!
For some reason i was always getting cleaned up and not surfing well……i got smoked the whole day!I ended up realizing why ,,,,on the same night i got a cold,,,,i think my imune system was low and i was with not much energy,, after the day i felt sick…..
Next morning i decided i was gone take the day off to get better…….it was so hard cause everywhere was going off,,,,,,,beautifull waves!But i sticked to my plan and just worked on emails….and wached the waves to absorb the good energy!
Yesterday the waves came up again,,,,i had still the end of the cold with some asthma, i though i wouldnt surf but when i saw sunset with no crowd ,,,,10 to 12 feet a little desorganized, i could no longer stay in land!I took my 9″8 out and surfed 1 wave,,,,,,i wish i could’ve surfed the whole day like my good friend Andrew Marr did, but it was too much work for someone with a cold!I went to Waimea to catch a couple more cause it was easy and mellow……..
In the Afternoon i still had a photo shooting for a magazine in Brazil called ,GoOutside….im supposed to make the cover but we ended up not getting a very good shot………so we gone have to shoot again!!!!
Today is a rest day , so i can get rid of the cold,,,,,cause i have a long week with big waves from tommorow on and i have to be 100%!!!!!!