Pipe was just huge yesterday……12 foot ,second reef , perfection!
I surfed a few waves early at Sunset before the junior contest started then i did 2 sessions at Pipe!
The first surf was probably 6 to 8 feet with some bigger sets , i was riding my 8″4 which felt a little too big then it got bigger!
I got a few waves but nothing really special , but i watched a lot and tried to figure out some things about that wave……….its such and incrediable wave , unpredictable and with a heavy crowd!At the End you always end up going on the waves you dont really want cause youve been sitting there for just so long,,,,,,anyway i guess we are always learning , right?
At night i went to Carlos Burle house they were having a huge barbeque and all my friends were there!
We were celebrating the fact that the brazilians Kiron Jabour, Marco Giorgi and Geronimo Vargas dominated the final of the Pro Junior at 10++ foot Sunset!
Im so proud of them,,,
So today i went first light to surf Pipe got a couple came in cause it was getting just too crowded and went out at Sunset to have some fun!
Ill take the afternoon off today and keep an eye on the next storms…..